Shapeshifting in the Desert
And Riding the Solitude Trail
Fruita, Moab, and Sedona Winter Mountain Bike Getaway
I was sitting at my beautiful antique upright piano, hands poised, ready to play. I was suspended in time because I knew that I could only play one note; but I didn’t know what that note should be. Lifting the front panel of the piano, I looked inside for guidance. There was nothing inside the piano except a single silver rose.
The week before my trip was a teeny bit awful. I felt pummeled by the universe on every front. The harder I tried, the worse things got. Finally I threw up my hands in surrender. And when it was time to leave I couldn’t get the hell out of town fast enough.
I was craving solitude, sunshine, time on my bike, and an early spring. A road trip to visit a good friend in Arizona was the remedy for what felt like a long Wyoming winter.
Later at my friend’s house in Arizona on the spring equinox, I drew the card of Shapeshifter.
Coyote. Raven. Mountain Lion. Eagle. Badger.
Shift, pedal, climb, shift, descend, and…… coast.
I fairly coasted my way south, cocooned in the cab of my truck, lost in my thoughts and surrounded by the beauty of the landscape. I took whatever back roads called to me. I stopped and biked. I sat in the bed of my pickup and watched the sun set over Monument Valley. I had ice cream in Mexican Hat, Utah.
It’s probably a good thing. I ended up on the Adobe Jack trail and other miscellaneous trails. Adobe Jack was like the Disneyland of trails, a purpose-built track that was yeehaw fun.
I hit a drug dealer’s truck the night before in the cheap motel’s parking lot and was super sleep deprived on this day – as if riding in Sedona didn’t feel other-worldly enough.
I was psyched to be back, in part because it remained so beautiful and unchanged after all these years. Here I am standing in my dreaming spot – the place where I lived in my tent. I feel like the same person but not at all like the same person. It seems like a lifetime ago. And while my eyes couldn’t pick out the faint trails that I used to follow every day, my heart and my feet remembered.
This was a great time in my life, when everything I owned fit in the back of my truck. So simple. It was here that I found my very own Walden.
The creek flows intermittently underground. It’s a magical place. I’ve seen javelina and beautiful lizards and tree frogs in the chasm. There are rare plants growing from the dripping springs in the cliffs. There is probably no one I’d rather share this place with than my friend Rita, a kindred spirit.
I lived here during the monsoon season and spent many cold and wet nights in my tent from January to March. On my days off I explored southern Arizona, all the way to the Mexican border. It was heaven to warm up and dry off. Sometimes I’d visit my grandpa Kramer who lived on the Arizona/California border. On one visit he gave me a mason jar of fresh-squeezed orange juice from the trees in his yard, which I took on a solo backpack trip into Joshua Tree National Park.
But I never saw one in the flesh and so it was that she became a spirit animal to me. Once she killed and cached a deer just yards from my tent, returning to feed on it every night. Another time I was so close on her trail that I came across her steaming scat in the early morning light. While hiking with Rita we saw big lion prints and tons of scat, old and new, on the road to my camp. It was like a mountain lion highway.
At the end of my trip I felt a little sad when I unloaded my bike from my truck and hung up my hat. I missed my family while on the road but back at home I started missing my Self, the person that I had ‘rediscovered’ on my trip. The person I used to be so many years ago and that I met again in the desert. I was struck by how much I felt like a shapeshifter.
Desert Rat. Conservationist. Nomad. Mother of three. Colleague. Sister. Daughter. Wife. Friend.
I called Rita a few days after I got home and was lamenting about how hard it was to get back into the swing of things and also not get sucked into the daily drama of life – those tiny dust devils spinning around.
Rita said, “let the desert spirits guide you.” And when the storms of life are brewing, try to be the owl holding tight onto a branch in the storm; the coyote warily watching and waiting; the eagle soaring above.
Many thanks to Rita and her husband Kenneth, and also to the coyote, the lion, the eagles and owls, and the song of the canyon wren that I so longed to hear. Thanks for the beauty, insight and peace.
And the silver rose in my dream? Well, the Rose, according to my friend Rita, is love. The only note.